23 Steps To Building A Fantastic Go Kart Frame!

Last Updated on June 2021

If you are planning on making your go-kart you are in the right place. Building go-karts can be an extremely fun project. What’s even better is that you can take this project on yourself or as a family project

Bill Of Materials:

  • 4-inch x 8-inch mild steel plate: .25 inch.2.5 inches x 6-inch mild steel sheet: 11 gauge.
  • 42 feet of round tubing: 1.00 inch outside diameter x .058 inch wall.
  • 4-inch x 12-inch mild steel sheet: 14 gauge.
  • 23-inch x 22-inch mild steel sheet: 16 gauge.


  • Bend grinder with ¾” wide grinding wheel.
  • Tube bender with a bending die for ¾” tubing, 4” bend radius.
  • Hole saw cutting tool (such as a Joint Jigger™ or similar brand).
  • Hole saw ¾” diameter.
  • Flatwork surface.

Go Kart Frame Venture Notes:

This task is designed to be finished using either MIG, TIG, or Oxy-Acetylene weld measures. Nonetheless, if either TIG or the Oxy measures are used, the weld joints should be especially close.

Any time you make more than one twist in a cylinder structure that should stay level, give specific consideration to the plane of the cylinder preceding each twist. Something else, the tube structure may get unusable. This can be done by changing the stature of a take-up table or surface to relate to the lower part of the cylinder. This is best done before any curves are made, while the cylinder is resting in the bending die. For more information on the best metal tube benders [Read our Full Review]

23 Steps To Building a Superb Go Kart Frame!

Step 1: Alluding to the cut rundown on page one of the drawing, cut a length of ¾” X .058 tubing for part number WP-908-2.

Step 2: Using a tube bender with a ¾” X 4″ bowing kick the bucket, make the curves in the cylinder to make part number WP-908-2 as demonstrated on the drawing.

This will be the lower part of the go-kart frame.

After all, curves are made, this part will be rectangular. Ensure the tube ends are inside a 1/16″ from one another and confronting each other in one of the more limited legs of the square shape, as indicated on the drawing.

Step 3: Weld the tips of the tube do rectangle together. This ought to be a level weld globule right around the cylinder. Ensure the “frame base” lays level on the work surface when it is welded.

Step 4: Cut the length of tubing for part number WP-908-3.

Step 5: Like the above advances, make the essential twists to make part number WP-098-3.

Step 6: Most holes saw instruments won’t take long, shallow cuts like the ones at the closures of part number WP-908-3. This is because of the restricted travel distance of the opening saw. A compelling strategy for setting up these tuber ends for the joint is by framing them on a seat processor.

This is a typical technique for making a “Fish-mouth” in the closures of tubing used in airplane construction. It is finished by using a dressing wheel to make a  radius on the face of the grinding wheel.

The width of your grinding wheel should be equal to the breadth of the tubing to which the part will mate-for this situation, ¾”. After the granulating wheel face has been molded (radiused), the cylinder end can be shaped by holding the end of a tube at the right point while crushing a concave or “fish-mouth” important to make the joint geometry.

It is fitting to rehearse first on a piece of scrap tubing. Make certain to work gradually and check the fit regularly. It will not take long to discover the amount to crush. The outcomes can be shockingly acceptable.

Step 7: Cut tubing and make the base end cuts for part numbers WP-908-5, WP-908-6, WP-908-7, WP-908-8, WP-908-9, and WP-908-10. Continuously check the attack of the cylinder where there is contact with another cylinder, as such, at the joints.

Step 8: Spot the frame base, WP-908-2, on the level work surface. Clamp it up, or place loads on the top so it won’t move without any problem.

Position a WP-908-10 on one side of the frame base as shown on the drawing. Ensure this cylinder is vertical and opposite to the long side of the base frame. Tack weld set up.

Step 9: Rehash on the opposite side of the edge base.

Step 10: Spot part numbers WP-908-6, and WP-908-7 between the edge base and in the areas shown on the drawing. Tack weld set up.

Step 11: Spot part numbers WP-908-3, WP-908-5, WP-908-8, and WP-908-9 in a hurry kart frame base as shown on the drawing. Hold these parts set up with braces, magnets, or wire. Reevaluate the placement and fit after they have been gotten set up. There ought not to be more than a 1/16″ hole between parts at the joints.

Step 12: Tack weld each cylinder at the joints. Ensure the frame base is still level on the work surface. Complete the welds at each joint, rotating from one side of the edge to the next.

Step 13: Cut the length of tubing and curve as per the attraction to make part number WP-908-4. This is the turnover bar/seatback.

Step 14: Position the roll-over bar on the edge as indicated by the drawing. Check the fit at the cylinder closes. Tack weld set up at the two closures of the cylinder. Reevaluate the situation and fit and complete the welds.

Step 15: Make part number WP-908-13. Position each section (each in turn) on the frame and check the fit. Tack weld each cylinder at the right point, ensuring the two sections are following part number WP-908-6 (front cross member).

The position, design, and point of these parts straightforwardly impact the following: and guiding of the go-kart. Whenever this has been guaranteed, finished the welds.

Step 16: Cut part number WP-908-16 (qty 2) from the 11 GA sheet. Twist the plates as shown in the drawing. Note: utilize the level example measurements when removing the pieces of the sheet.

Step 17: Weld WP-908-16 set up each in turn as demonstrated on the drawing. The position, system, and point of these parts additionally influence the following and directing of the go-kart.

Step 18: Cut and set up the finishes of part number WP-908-12 (qty 2). Cut a length of tube for part number WP-908-11.

Step 19: Position these cylinders in a go-kart frame as shown on the drawing. Check the joint fit and tack weld set up. Then finish the welds.

Step 20: From the 16 GA material, cut part number WP-908-17. Spot this part on the edge and weld set up. To wipe out or abstain from twisting the plate, or causing misalignment, start by tack welding the plate at each corner and each edge.

Step 21: Cut part number WP-908-14 from the ¼” plate material. Tack weld set up. Check the situation referring to the drawing. Complete the welds. These plates are the go-kart frames back hub bearing mounting plates. The subtleties of the bearing mounting openings have been discarded because of the different heading that is accessible and might be liked by the developer.

Step 22: Cut part number WP-908-15 from the 14 GA material, using the level example measurements. Make the indicated twists in the part. This part is the motor mount section. The motor mount bolt design has been excluded because of the different motors accessible and liked by the developer. The specific mounting openings can without much effort be bored in the section in the wake of welding.

Step 23: Spot the motor mount section on the edge and position as shown on the drawing. Check the fit and tack weld set up. Complete the welds. Now the essential go-kart frame is finished. Things excluded from this system are the axles, gas and brake pedals, guiding shaft and bell crank, seat and seat mounting. Every one of these things is promptly accessible, off-the-rack things that don’t should be created.

How Much Does It Cost

A man holding moneyAs a rule, fabricating your own go-kart will cost you around $400 to $860 contingent upon whether you will purchase used or fresh-out-of-the-box new parts. In any case, burning through $400 to fabricate your own go-kart is a reasonable value range for practically any kind of financial plan.

1. Cost of Go-Kart Frame

The frame goes about as the establishment of your go-kart. You’ll see that pretty much every other part will associate with the edge in for sure. You can select another go-kart frame which will cost you about $200. As these frames are made explicitly for go-karts, they will typically additionally accompany the necessary mounts, sections, and loops.

2. Cost of Go-Kart Directing Unit

We should accept that you’ve settled on a go-kart frame with a controlling band previously welded into place. This implies that you need to represent the expense of tie poles, a guiding rack, a movable shaft, and a directing wheel. You can either get these independently, however, I suggest getting a pack that has all the controlling segments included.

For a shiny new set, you’ll have the option to get this for around $90, though a pre-owned set for the most part goes for about $35. You can discover great ones on Amazon.

3. Cost of Go-Kart Wheels

Go-kart wheels come in different shapes, sizes, and types. They’re cheap and you can get them for about $15 each pristine ($60 for four). Simply recall that you’ll require 4 of them, two for the front and two for the back.

4. Cost of Go-Kart Tires​

The cost distinction between pristine go-kart tires and second-hand or used go-kart tires is moderately large. This is because used kart tires frequently have less profile on them and will not keep going as long as other ones. In case you’re fabricating your own kart on a careful spending plan, you may not need go-kart hustling tires, as they are typically more costly. You can decide on non-hustling or rough terrain tires on the off chance that they are more reasonable.

A set of 4 used go-kart tires start around $30, though new ones start at around $100 for a bunch of 4.

5. Cost of Go-Kart Pedals

Utilized pedals are moderately simple to buy and there is plenty of utilized ones on eBay. They go for just $10 a couple. One for the left side (slowing down pedal) and the other for the correct side (gas pedal).

Another pair of pedals isn’t significantly more costly than utilized ones and you can get a fundamental set for around $15.

6. Cost of Go-Kart Seat

The extraordinary thing about tracking down a decent seat for your independent kart is that it doesn’t need to be explicitly made for go-karting. However long it is mountable, you can utilize it to assemble your go-kart.

Used seats go for about $35, which you’ll likely need to repair a bit. Another seat will start at about $60 and can as far as possible up to about $100 for an excellent one.

These are not the only parts you are going to buy. However, this rundown demonstrates that building your own Go-Kart frame is affordable.

Disclaimer:  These prices are subject to the prevailing market conditio9ns. So always take due diligence and confirm the prices from the sellers before ordering the parts.

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